Rules of the Road

I slip the knife under my pillow, inches from my fist, settle myself for sleep. It is a table knife, too dull to do much damage, but does provide a bit of bravado. I fantasize an intruder would retreat in alarm rather than reckon with this knife-wielding gringa.

I am spending the night in Los Mochis, Sinoloa, at Pemex station #4715, and I am not taking any chances.

My predilection for the pillow knife was born from reading too many swash-buckling tales of bandidos pouncing upon travelers, demanding their money and their jewels. Or else. Mexican lore, circa 1870.

Zoom back to the big picture. My husband and I overnight at Pemex stations during our drive from the Mexican border to our winter home in San Pancho because we travel by fifth wheel (truck and trailer). We do this because our cat, Tango, prefers a queen-size bed and queen-size litter box. Stuff her into an airline carrier? Not a chance. Tango rules.

It is relatively easy to find an overnight spot in the states. While Wal-Mart and other "big box" stores are no longer amenable to RVers, we have options: campgrounds, casinos, deserted office parks. Not so simple once we cross the border.

Years past we could plot a campground course from Nogales to Guymas, first night; Los Mochis, second night; Mazatlan third night; long day’s drive to San Pancho and home. The last couple of years, however, RV parks along the route have either deteriorated, closed, or sold out to make way for other endeavors. It is possible to overnight at autopista toll areas, restaurant parking lots, with permission, sometimes city streets. But security is an issue. RVs attract attention.

A chance remark led us to investigate a reasonable alternative: the ubiquitous Pemex stations along major and secondary highways. According to "Mexican Camping," a traveler’s guide by Mike and Terri Church, many of the larger stations offer showers, internet, banking, other amenities. They also offer plenty of space. Good for us and good for the dozens of trucks that may, on any given night, care to join us.

We have devised a protocol for sleeping at a Pemex: position the trailer so the door is visible, preferably under a light; park as far as possible from the semi-dobles that spew diesel fumes; tip the man who says he is security, who says he will be all eyes and ears while we sleep.

And slip a table knife under the pillow.